Statue of Hsuan-Tsang.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Success
Hazards
As I approached China's extreme outpost at the edge of the Desert of Lop, I was caught by the Chinese army. Not having a travel permit, they wanted to send me to Tun-huang to stay att the monastery there. However, I answered that if they insist on detaining me, I will allow them to take my life, but I will not take a single step backwards in the direction of China.
Since the officer himself was a Buddhist, he let me passed but in order to avoid the next outpost, he lft the main foot-track and made a detour, which brought me to a place so wild that no westige of life colud be found there. There was neither a bird, nor a four legged beasts, neither water nor pasture. At the point of my final exhaustion, my only companion, a horse, turned in another direction, following his animal instinct which led them to a place where there was water and pasture. My life was finally saved. That was the worse hazard ever in my whole journey.
Golden Age of India
When I was in India, there was a golden age happening there. It was the Chalukya dynasty. During that period of time, I went over to visit the court of Puleksi II. During my time of visit, Puleksi II had divided his empire into three Maharashtrakes or great provinces comprising of 99,000 villages each. I became impressed with the governance of the empire observed that the benefits of the king's efficient administration was felt far and wide.
South Asia
After leaving Peshawar, I travelled northeast to the Swat Valley. When I reached Udyana, I found 1,400 old monasteries that had previously supported 18,000 monks. I continued moving northward and into the Buner Valley before going back via Shabaz Gharni to cross the Indus River at Hund. Thereafter, I headed to Taxila, a Mahayana Buddhist Kingdom that was a vassal of Kashmir, which is precisely where I headed next. There I found over 5,000 Buddhist monks in 100 monasteries. There I met a brilliant Mahayana monk and I spent my next two years studying Mahayana alongside other schools of Buddhism with him. During that period of time, I wrote about the Fourth Buddhist council that took place nearby, which was under the other of King Kanishka of Kushana.
In AD 633, I left Kashmir and journeyed south to Chinabhukti. I studied there for a year with a monk-prince Vinitaprabha.
In AD 634, I went east to Jalandhar in eastern Punjab, before climbing up to visit predominantly Theravada monasteries in the Kulu valley and turning southward again to Bairat and then to Mathura which is on the Yamuna river. There was 2,000 monks in Mathura of both major Buddhist branches despite being a Hindu dominated country. I then travelled up the river to Srughna before crossing eastward to Matipura. I arrived there in AD 635 having crossed river Ganges. From there I headed south to Sankasya, said to be where Buddha descended from heaven. From there I moved onward to teh northern Indian emperor Harsha's grand capital of Kanyakubja. There in AD 636, I encountered 100 monasteries of 10,000 monks and I became impressed by the king's patronage of both scholarship and Buddhism. I spent the time in the city studyiing Theravada scriptures before setting out eastward again for Ayodhya, the homeland of Yogacara school. I then moved out south to Kausambi where I had a copy made from an important local image of the Buddha.
Kulu Valley.
River Ganges.
Buddha.
I then returned northward to Sravasti, then travelled through Terai and thence to Kapilavastu, my last stop before Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. Reaching Lumbini, I had seen a pillar near the old Ashoka and records that he worshipped at that paticular spot.
In AD 637, I set out of Lumbini to Kusinagara, the site of Buddha's unfortunate death. I then headed southwest again to the deer park at Sarnath where Buddha gave his first sermon, where I managed to found 1,500 resident monks. Travelling eastward via Varanasi, I reached Vaisali, Paliputra and Bodh Gaya. I was then accompanied by local monks to Nalanda, the great ancient university of India where I spent at least two years. I was accompanied by several thousand scholar monks. I studied logic, grammar, Sanskrit at the Yogacara school of Buddhism during my time at Nalanda.
The Journey
The Main Routes of the Old Silk Road.
The Gobi Desert.
Tian Shan.
I then moved further east and passed through Kunduz, where I stayed for some time to witness the funeral rites of Prince Tardu, who had been poisoned. There I also met the monk Dharmasimha. He recommended, from the advice of the late Tardu, I should continue my trip westward to Balkh to see the Buddhist sites and relics, especially the Nava Vihara which I thought was the wasternmost monastic institution in the world. There I met over 3,000 Theravada monks, including Prajnakara, a monk that I studied Theravada scriptures with. I was accompanied by Prajnakara to Bamyan, where I met the king and saw tens of Theravada monasteries. In addition, I saw the two large Bamyan Buddhas carved out of the rockface. I then resumed my travels eastward, crossing the Shibar pass and descending to the regional capital of Kapisi. I took part in a religious debate in a fabled old land of Gandhara to demonstrate my knowledge of many Buddhist seets. After meeting my first Jains and Hindus, and pushed on to Jalalabad and Laghman, I considered myself to have reached India. That year was AD 630.
The Ancient Walls of Balkh.